A steam train on the West Somerset Railway.

The West Somerset Railway is a great way to see some of the Exmoor villages and can provide an excellent day out for all the family (and the dog) without the need to drive.

Tickets can be booked on the day at the booking office, or once on board from the ticket collector. Children under 5 travel free.

There is a One Day Rover ticket which allows you unlimited access to the WSR for one day, and this can also be purchased on the day, or can be booked online at least seven days in advance. Other Rover tickets are available for two days or one week. Dogs can ride on the trains for a flat rate, low priced ticket, but you are asked not to allow them to travel on the seats or take them into the buffet car. Assistance dogs travel free and most things on the WSR are accessible for disabled passengers, who are charged half the full fare. Details can be found at http://www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk/

Bishops Lydeard Station the southern terminus of the line and the headquarters of the West Somerset Railway Association. It was once just a small village station, opened in 1862, on the line from Norton Fitzwarren to Watchet, but was later closed down, to reopen in 1979 as the southern terminus of the WSR. Later, as passenger numbers increased greatly during the summer months, the platform was lengthened to cope with the longer trains On platform 1 is the Guage Museum, which has on show many rail items of local interest and tells how the railway has affected the lives of the local people.  At weekends and special occasions the model railway layout housed in the museum is also open.

Platform 2 has the station shop, selling a good range of new and second-hand model railway equipment, plus books and souvenirs. Platform 2 also has the Wheel Tapper’s Buffet, which is next to the signal box and sells hot and cold snack items, soft drinks and sweets.

Five minutes walk from the station brings you to the village of Bishops Lydeard, which is in the Vale of Taunton Deane between the Quantock Hills in the east and Exmoor in the west, with the Bristol Channel to the north. The houses in the old village are a charming mixture of red sandstone and brick. From the station, follow Station Road into Mount Street and carry on through the vilage to Mill Lane, on the right, then walk along to see the old watermill. There were once two mills in the village, but the higher one has been demolished, while the lower mill has been restored to be a working mill and has a good example of an overshot waterwheel. As well as the water wheel you are able to see what it was once like in an authentic wheelwright’s shop and a blacksmith’s shop. The Mill and Rural Life Museum also has models showing many different types of mills and the other exhibits include carriages and wagons.

The aptly named Dusty Miller’s Tea Room sells home made cakes, soft drinks, ice creams and other goodies. Back along Mill Lane, turn right on to Mount Street and walk further into the village to the Bird in The Hand Pub, which has a children’s play area. You can get food and drink here and just next door is a little craft shop.

Inside the village church of St Mary the Virgin you can see beautiful wood carvings; the church’s earliest parts date from the 14th century and the village charter from 1291 is on display. Next to the church is another pub, the Bell Inn. This is a free house, offering food as well as good beer, and there’s also a play area for the children.

After exploring the village and perhaps taking some refreshment, it’s time to head back to the station to board the train to….

Crowcombe Heathfield station, which is at the highest point on the line, at just under 400ft above sea-level, On the 7th April 1859 Lady Isabel Acland-Hood, the daughter of a local landowner, ceremonially lifted the first sod for the original West Somerset Railway here, and the station was built in 1862 when the line opened. The main station building and the nearby cottages and station masters house date from the same time. The present day layout has two platforms, which have been made longer over the years, and the station has a booking office and a small shop, as well as toilet facilities, including a disabled persons accessable toilet. Hot and cold drinks, cakes and biscuits can be purchased on days that trains are running, and on Gala days hot savoury snacks are also available. During winter there’s even the welcome of a coal fire! The station is perfect for peaceful relaxation, or as the start or end point of a walk in the Quantock Hills.

In the beginning the line was operated by the Bristol and Exeter Railway, then absorbed into the Great Western Railway and eventually became part of British Rail. In the 1960s fewer passengers travelling on the line led to its “rationalisation” , which led to it falling into neglect until it finally closed in 1971. In 1964, although still closed, the station was used for some scenes in the Beatles’ film “Hard Day’s Night”, and during the 70s it was used for many of the scenes in the popular children’s TV series, “The Flockton Flyer”. Later, in the opening shots of the TV version of C. S. Lewis’s “The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe” the children were filmed leaving the station after arriving by train, and more recently the station was used in a lot of shots in the film “The Land Girls” with trains shown arriving and departing.

Starting in June 1979 the line was gradually reopened, beginning with the section from Stogumber to Bishops Lydeard, including Crowcombe. Crowcombe Heathfield has won the West Somerset Railway’s annual Best Kept Station Award many times, and also won an award for Best Restored Station in 1997, as well as Best Floral Display in the inter-stations competition, for its flower beds, pots and hanging baskets.

Next stop along the line is Stogumber Station, where tickets are sold in the refreshments room, which also sells cream teas, or in colder weather, tea and crumpets. Unusually, the platform at this station is on the other side from the main building. Once upon a time the station had a large goods shed and cattle pens, but where these stood there is now a beautiful garden with lawns and shrubs, where passengers can relax or have a picnic.

The surrounding countryside is very pretty, good for walking. There is plenty of wildlife about and you’ll be quite unlucky if you don’t come across some. The railway once had the nickname of “The Primrose Line”, due to the abundant primroses that grow in the area.
The station is staffed and maintained by a small group of volunteers, Friends of Stogumber Station (FoSS), who manage the buildings, gardens and platform and they have plans to build a viewing gallery in the old cattle dock. It will have disabled access and visitors will be able to watch the trains go by while they have a cup of tea.

The village of Stogumber lies about one mile to the west. It is a picturesque and thriving village, surrounded by rolling farmland and situated between the Quantocks and the Brendon Hills. The High Street, with its mix of colour-washed and thatched properties, is a favourite part of the village for photographs, and it leads to the Square, where you’ll find the shop and the large Norman church of St. Mary The Virgin, which has been the focal point of Stogumber for more than six centuries, and which has several unique ancient features. Outside the church there are carvings of heads and gargoyles and a churchyard cross, the base of which is very ancient, and near the south porch there is a smooth triangle of grass which is said to be the common grave of victims of a long-ago plague.

Back to the station and all aboard for the journey to Williton Station, where the main building still has its original Italianate chimney, and entering gives you the feeling of walking into a bygone time. The main station building is next to the original B&ER signal box, which is believed to be the only surviving operational one of its kind, and the wooden building that houses the small gift shop on the other platform used to be the old waiting room. The gift shop raises money for the upkeep of the station. The full range of West Somerset Railway Tickets may be purchased at the booking office, and there are toilets but no disabled toilet facilities. The Goods Shed is presently occupied by the Diesel and Electric Group. This collection of diesel locomotives is now also a part of railway history. Of special interest are the Western Region Diesel Hydraulic locomotives which once pulled famous trains like the “Torbay Express”, “Golden Hind” and “Cornish Riviera”.

To visit Williton itself entails a walk of around half an hour. Leave the station by the Signalbox and walk up Station Road past the industrial estate to the junction with Long Street. Turn right into Long Street and you will shortly come to “The Foresters Arms” pub. From there onwards Long Street has a mix of modern houses, businesses like wine shops and hotels, older cottages, and then at the village centre, the “Royal Huntsman” pub and the Williton Social Club face each other on opposite sides of the road. On the same side of the road as the “Royal Huntsman” there is a cafe and bakery. Turn right past these and you come to the “Mason’s Arms”. The town centre itself includes a newsagent, post office, two banks, pet supplies and County Stores.

St. Peter’s Church in Williton was once part of the ancient Parish of Decuman and still has its medieval nave and chancel, with only the east and west walls surviving from that time. The existing church today is Victorian, with a font carved from alabaster from the hills of Watchett. The cottages next to St Peter’s are the Church Cottages which originated in the 16th century for the brewing of church ales.
Walking along the Taunton Road brings you to the ‘Wyndham Arms’ and if you then turn into the Minehead Road you will pass Gliddons Stores to reach the edge of town and the Police Station. From here you can follow the signposts to the Bakelite Museum.  This popular tourist attraction in Williton is housed within the historic town watermill, the Orchard Millhouse, and it has one of the largest collections of vintage Bakelite plastics in the world. There are two floors of exhibits and thousands of objects, many of which are very rare. Those visitors old enough to remember the pre-plastic days can take a trip down memory lane, while younger visitors may see them as a curiosity or as collectible items. Either way the Bakelite Museum can provide an afternoon of interesting fun and it has a cafe on the premises where you may like to enjoy a cream tea before or after your visit.

The next stop on our journey may (or may not) be at Doniford Halt. Trains stop here by request, and passengers must attract the atention of the driver of the train by holding one arm up whilst on the platform. Whilst passengers wishing to alight must notify the Guard of their intention. The approach from the road to the platform is difficult, but as long as you are aware of this wheel chairs can be accommodated at Doniford Halt.There are no toilet facilities at this Station and nowhere to buy tickets, but these can be obtained on the
train from the Travelling Ticket Inspector.

The station was built in the 1980s to serve the nearby Haven Holiday Centre, but it tried to recreate the atmosphere of a typical Great Western Railway wayside Halt. Its cast iron ‘Pagoda’ Shelter is from Cove on the former Exe Valley line and the platform is from Montacute on the now closed Taunton to Yeovil line.

So on we go to Watchett Station.This station was the original terminus of the West Somerset Railway in 1862. There is a booking office here, a small shop, and toilet facilities. There are no disabled toilets on the station, but there are some in the public toilets in the car park opposite the station.

Watchet is an ancient harbour town and has a network of small streets and shops to be explored, including several pubs and cafes. The station stands right in the middle of the town adjacent to the very attractive harbour which now has a new life as a Marina and is home to many and varied craft. Dogs are allowed on the small West Street beach, on the West pier and round the Marina on the East Quay. The network of railway sidings that served the docks has now gone and the former goods shed of the station is now a Boat Museum. The town’s history can be traced in its Museum, just off the esplanade.

After exploring Watchett, we can rejoin the train to travel on to Washford Station, which is situated at the second highest point on the line, which means that between Watchet and Blue Anchor, the climb from either direction to Washford is a fairly stiff one for steam locomotives, and coming up from Blue Anchor there is a one mile section at 1 in 65, which is the steepest on the line.

Washford Station is the home of the Somerset and Dorset Railway Trust who have set up what is described as “one of the very best railway museums in the land”, containing many artifacts of the S&DJR, nearly all restored in pristine condition Although Washford Station is accessible to disabled passengers it has no disabled toilet in it’s toilet facilities. There is also no ticket office, so you cannot buy your ticket at this station, but may get it from the travelling ticket inspector once on board.

Washford itself also has plenty of things to see and do. It is just a short walk from the station to Cleeve Abbey, an English Heritage property which was formerly a Cistercian Abbey. It is open to the public from the 1st April until the end of November, and if you can show a WSR ticket there is a 20% reduction in the admission price. Although the main abbey church is no longer there, what remains gives a fascinating insight into how life was for the monks, and there is still an atmosphere of calm about the place. You can see some of the finest cloister buildings in England at Cleeve Abbey, and the 15th century timber roof in the refectory is adorned with exquisite carved angels. There are some unique medieval wall paintings in the Painted Chamber and the floor of an earlier refectory can be seen, which has 13th century heraldic tiles from one end to the other. You can buy tea, coffee and soft drinks available at the Abbey site.

Among several pubs in Washford which serve food are the Washford Inn, at the end of the Station ramp, and The White Horse, near the abbey, and a bit further on from the abbey, at Torre cider farm, you can find out how they make Somerset cider and maybe do some sampling of the product!

Blue Anchor Station is next on the line. It has two long platforms and a signal box from which the level crossing gates are opened in the traditional manner of turning a capstan wheel, something rarely seen nowadays. The small Blue Anchor Railway Museum museum is in the former waiting room on the down platform. The museum is open on Sundays, bank holidays and gala days between Easter and September. The station has a booking office and there are toilets, but not with disabled facilities.

Blue Anchor is a quiet seaside village with a long beach of sand and shingle which is great for finding fossils, though you must be wary of the very fast tides. The area is famous for its alabaster rocks and cliffs, and it is said that when the tide is very low the remains of a submerged forest can be seen.

Held annually, the Blue Anchor Beach to Minehead raft race is one of the biggest events of its type in the country. Competitors start the day at Blue Anchor, building their rafts from many and varied items and when the tide is right they race towards Minehead. The day is rounded off with a spectacular firework display from Minehead harbour.

From Blue Anchor you have wonderful coastal views to Minehead and Exmoor and across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, and you can enjoy a meal or just a snack at the Driftwood Cafe or the Smugglers Pub, both of which serve good, home-cooked meals. Blue Anchor beach allows dogs all year round, and at high tide the promenade is a popular destination for fishermen. Frozen fishing bait is sold at the Driftwood Cafe.

Just 100 yards from the beach, Home Farm is a small working farm with a herd of Oxford Sandy and Black pigs, plus many other animals, including sheep, goats, ducks and poultry, and also donkeys and ponies. There is a farm shop selling local meats, jams etc., and a tea room serving delicious home-made cakes and cream teas. In addition to these, there is a hands-on farm trail, which is a delight to both children and adults.

From Blue Anchor you can choose whether to reboard the train, or enjoy a leisurely stroll along the beach to Dunster. The railway follows the same route, so you can see the steam trains chuffing by and maybe get some good photos of them. Its an easy walk, ideal for families and dogs .

Whichever way you choose, you will next come to Dunster Station, which stands in the area known as Dunster Marsh and is a five minute walk from the beach at Dunster. Along the walk you may be able to see the area of sunken land that was once the Medieval Port of Dunster. Dunster Station has a booking office. In fact the tickets for the railway are printed here on a press once used by British Railways. The station has toilets, but no disabled facilities.

When the station first opened in 1874 it was the local station for the family living in nearby Dunster Castle, which is the reason the main building was built in such a grand style. The main building has been superbly restored, and also houses the Railway’s ticket printing department. Not only tickets for the West Somerset Railway are printed on the old Edmondson Press, but also those for many other heritage lines. It is a Grade II Listed building, as is the goods shed next to it, which is now home to the Railway’s Permanent Way department. In it are kept supplies of track and equipment for maintaining the bridges, stations and buildings on the railway , and also the machines needed to attend to the 40 miles of vegetation along the track. It is said that the goods shed itself is haunted.

Free bus services run between the Station and the Village on Bank Holiday Sundays and Mondays andspecial days, but there is no regular bus service otherwise. The walk of about one mile takes around 20 minutes, with the last part being slightly uphill, but Dunster Village, with its Castle, Yarn Market, many shops and pubs and buildings of historical interest, is very well worth the effort. Holders of West Somerset Railway tickets can obtain a 20% discount on Admission to the Castle.

Having probably spent some hours in Dunster Village you may again climb aboard the train to reach Minehead Station at the end of the line. Here there is a booking office, and the Station also has toilet facilities for both able and disabled passengers, and also baby changing facilities.

There is plenty of interest here on the station itself, with a shop selling many things, from books and postcards to warm clothing and toys, a cafe serving fresh hot and cold food and drink, a platform stall selling second-hand books, and great opportunities for photographs of the trains. Just outside the station is the esplanade and across the road is the beach. Dogs can go on the beach near the golf course (eastern end of the beach, near Butlins) all year round, but are only allowed on the main town beaches from October to February. Minehead is full of interesting places to explore. It has more than enough shops to supply your every need and plenty of good places to eat.

Maybe a one-day rover ticket is not enough to see everything on this great railway.

The beach at Minehead

Minehead is a superb location to spend a holiday, offering not only sea and sand, but the perfect base from which to explore Exmoor, Somerset and parts of Devon. The name of the town Minehead is from the Welsh word mynedd, which means mountain, and probably that refers to North Hill, which can be seen for miles around and all along the coast to the east. North Hill is in the Exmoor National Park, yet it is just a short walk from the centre of town, which means that you don’t need to go far for the chance to see Exmoor ponies or red deer and it’s an ideal place to watch the sunset.

You can get part of the way there at the beginning of a circular tour of the Minehead. This begins at Wellington Square, by the statue of Queen Anne in front of St Andrew’s church, walk along Parkhouse Road for 200yds until you come to Parks Walk, which was once a strip of wasteland, but has now become a pleasant walk, planted with trees and shrubs. As you walk through the park you pass over two little bridges and when you reach Periton Lane, turn right.

Cross the main road and at the top of the of steps there turn right again into Whitecross Lane, which is on the lower slopes of North Hill, and as you continue into Vicarage Road you will see Church Steps, which is one of the most famous landmarks in Minehead. Some say the small house at the bottom of the steps was a prison, but it was more likely to have been a workhouse.

Climb Church Steps, passing between pretty cob-walled cottages, and at the top is Minehead’s Parish Church of St Michaels, parts of which date back to the 14th century. St Michaels has many interesting sculptures and features, which include a rood loft with a window in which in times gone by a light was kept burning all night to guide ships into the harbour, and also to show people on Exmoor the way back to the town. Outside the church you have a view of old and new Minehead spread out below, with the beauty of Exmoor in the distance behind it.

Carry on along St Michael’s Road until you come to the War Memorial. Up to the left of here is something that looks like a castle, but is actually Elgin Towers, which it’s thought was built to be a copy of Elgin Towers in Scotland.
From here there is a choice of paths to take. On the left, Burgundy Road leads to a path that meanders through the woods and gives views down to the harbour, but this route could become slippery in wet weather and there’s an easier way along Church Path.

Whichever way you go, you will arrive down on the quay near to a row of little cottages. In days gone by there was another row on the side of the road nearer the sea, which made this a very narrow little lane. Nearby you can see the Old Custom House and Mother Leaky’s cottage, by which time you’ll have reached the harbour.

Minehead was once a very important fishing port for herring, as well being used by the wool and coal trades in the area.

Next to The Old Ship Aground pub is a third church, called St Peter on the Quay, which was once a coal and timber store. It was a gift to the town by a mariner, Robert Quirke, after he’d been saved from a storm at sea. The lifeboat station just behind the church welcomes visitors to look around. Now walk back, turn right at coastguard cottages and carry on along Blenheim Road or detour through Blenheim Gardens, which is just off the main shopping area and has beautiful flower beds and borders. On weekends through the summer there are band concerts here and deckchairs are available. The original park band stand is now a café.

The walk through the park will bring you back to the Parade, at a point opposite The Old Priory, which is early Tudor in origin and was once the court house. Carry on walking to your right to Market House Lane and turn right into it. You will pass Quirke’s Almshouses, another of Robert Quirke’s good works. In 1630 he had them built to house needy people in Minehead, and today they are still in use, thanks to an anonymous donation that pays for their restoration.

At the northern end of the almshouses is a bell-cot, the bell in it being said to be from one of Robert Quirke’s ships, and you can also see the stump of the Old Market Cross. To complete this circular tour of the town, just walk back to the Parade and turn right.

Shops are plentiful in Minehead, many, varied and thriving. Walk from the seafront along The Avenue to find all the main banks, passing shops and eating places all along the way and several good charity shops, book shops, antique and craft shops for browsing, as well as shops to meet most other shopping needs.

The Regal Theatre, also in The Avenue, is Minehead’s only live theatre. Run and supported by volunteers, it offers a wide ranging programme of entertainment, including drama, throughout the year. The theatre bar is open before all performances and during intervals.

There’s a range of clothing and accessories shops, interestingly different from the usual High Street names, and every Friday, whatever the weather, the Farmers’ Market is open in The Parade from 8.30am to 2.30pm, selling local produce which can include such goodies as quails’ eggs, trout pate, cakes, pies and quiche, bread, cheeses, pasties, fresh fruit, jams, fresh eggs, cream, chocolates, ham, soup and more, as well as organic or free range meats, chickens, Aberdeen Angus beef, Gloucester Old Spot pork, wild boar, fresh vegetables, and fish.

Minehead has a mile of esplanade and mostly sandy beach, which becomes more pebbly at the harbour end. At the harbour there is an old stone pier, from which you may, if you wish, board one of the paddle steamers Balmoral or Waverley for your choice of a day, afternoon, or evening cruise along the Bristol Channel On these cruises you may visit such places as Ilfracombe, Lundy island, the Avon Gorge, or cruise along the rivers Avon, Severn and Wye. Local fishing trips are also available from this pier.

At the opposite end of the esplanade from the harbour is the Butlins holiday camp, where day visit tickets are available, allowing you to enjoy the activities on offer, such as the flumes in the sub-tropical waterworld, a traditional funfair and adventure playgrounds.

Minehead Railway Station is just across the road from the beach, at the end of The Avenue. It is the Northern terminal of the West Somerset Railway, which uses vintage steam and deisel engines and runs along the coast for 20 miles. Even if not travelling, you can go on to the quarter of a mile long platform here to take some photos of the
locomotives and have a look in the Buffer Stop Shop, which stocks specialist books, DVDs and magazines for railway enthusiasts, and a range of Hornby and Bachmann Railway sets and accessories for modellers.

They also sell warm clothing items, local interest books, videos, postcards, and postage stamps and many souvenir items, and for younger visitors there’s Thomas the Tank Engine merchandise The shop is open from 9:30am to 5:30pm on the days when trains are timetabled, and when no trains are timetabled the hours are Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10:30am to 3:30pm. On the platform, Readers Halt second hand book stall has a wide range of second hand books, videos, cd’s and dvd’s, and the funds from the sale of these go to pay for the maintenance of Minehead Station, which is carried out by the Friends of Minehead Station.

The Turntable Café offers a good choice of hot or cold foods and snacks, with mugs of freshly made teas and coffees. Their food is locally sourced where possible and you can eat in or take food away. Toilet facilities for both able and disabled passengers as well as baby changing facilities are available on the station.

The Turntable was installed in the station in 2008. The locomotive, which can weigh 165 tonnes, has to be carefully balanced on a central pivot which can be manually rotated by just one man.

The Station is laid out in such a way that visitors can stand on all sides of the turntable to see how this is done, the benefit of having this turntable being that the station is able to turn and service incoming steam charter trains from the National Network, and send them back again.The Turntable is used on selected days, for instance, during special events and galas. A day ticket for the trains may be purchased at the station booking office and provides an excellent day out with no driving, as you hop on and off the train as often as you wish at any of the ten stations along the route.

From Minehead railway station, turn left across the car park to find the Minehead EYE, a youth and community centre, where the facilities include a multi-purpose hall with skatepark and BMX park, a modern cafe with a viewing balcony, internet IT suite with WIFI access, a pool table and table football. There are regular music events and special courses and activities are available. Under 16 year-olds need parental permission. The skate park is suitable for all levels of ability, from beginner to expert.

Part of what makes Minehead the ideal centre for a holiday is that from here buses run to many of the other towns you might wish to explore. Taunton or Dunster, to name just two, or there’s the open top bus service which runs along the coast, providing sweeping coastal and moorland views on the journey from Minehead to Lynton and Lynmouth, and in the summer on as far as Ilfracombe! To explore Exmoor there’s a an open top bus service on which you can see some of the moor’s most beautiful areas.

Minehead is also one of the best places to choose as the centre for a walking holiday. Walks from here include a 5 mile walk to Dunster, from where if you wished, you could come back on the train, or there’s the 3.5mile walk to Selworthy, or for something a bit longer, carry on from Selworthy to complete the 10 mile Minehead to Porlock Weir walk.

Another good walk is to the top of North Hill, which is a circular walk of approximately 4 miles and takes in some beautiful views and possible wildlife sightings, but it does involve some steep climbing in places.

Minehead is at one end of The South West Coast Path, which stretches 630 miles around the coast to as far as Poole Harbour in Dorset. The path begins on the quayside in Minehead and the start is marked by a huge sculpture of a pair of hands holding a map. Walking the entire distance would be a whole holiday in itself, but you can only imagine the scenery and wildlife that you might encounter!

Looking east along the coast from Porlock Weir.

Porlock Vale has some of the most amazing landscapes of the Exmoor National Park. It stretches from Dunkery Beacon, to the shoreline on the Bristol Channel in one direction, and between Bossington Hill, to the east, and Porlock Hill to the west.

Dunkery Beacon is four miles inland from the sea, and is the highest point on Dunkery Hill, the whole of which turns a deep purple colour with heather each summer. There is a footpath to the top from which you have spectacular views. Some areas are wooded and you may see wildlife that includes Exmoor ponies, red deer, and birds such as skylarks, snipe, woodpeckers, to name only a few. Near to the summit there are also several Bronze Age burial mounds.

Nearby, Horner Woods has many ancient varieties of trees and several UK bat species, including barbastelle and Bechstein’s bats and is recognised as an important wildlife location, as is Porlock Marsh, a flooded, lagoon-like area behind the shingle bank which runs the length of Porlock Bay. This marsh area is home to some rare plants and attracts many types of sea birds, occasional visitors being Little Egrets, Spoonbill, Hen and Marsh Harrier, Osprey and Snow Buntings, among others. A memorial has been erected on the marsh, commemorating the American airman killed when a B24D liberator bomber crashed here on 29th October 1942. Also near to Porlock, Hawkcombe Woods, a National Nature Reserve, is another of the most ancient examples of English woodland. It is an important habitat of heath fritillary butterflies, red wood ant colonies, dead wood invertebrates, many kinds of mosses, and fungi, and 182 species of lichen. These three areas, Horner Woods, Porlock Marsh and Hawkcombe Woods are part of the North Exmoor Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Sheltered by the hills on each side, Porlock Bay enjoys warm and gentle climate and offers a range of holiday accommodation including Exmoor cottages, hotels, stays in farmhouses, or camping and caravanning sites, and is the perfect place to stay if you want to walk or ride on Exmoor. Whether you bring your own bike or hire one, there are miles of trails to cycle or walk on Exmoor

Regular shoots are organised close to the village by the National Trust and others, or, if you prefer to fish, Porlock offers sea fishing from the Weir, while for inland fishing there are the reservoirs and rivers of Exmoor within a short drive. There are, as well, several golf courses on the edges of Exmoor, the closest one being 7 miles away

The actual village of Porlock is some way inland from the sea, on the A39, and has a long history of previous settlement. Stone age remains have been found a short distance away. The High Street has a variety of shops to supply most needs, and plenty of pubs, restaurants and pasty shops. Porlock Visitor Centre is reputed to be one of the friendliest and most helpful Visitor Centres in the South West and they are happy to help visitors to find out about
walking, cycling, or whatever type of pursuit they are looking for in the area. Also in the visitor’s centre there is a reconstruction of The Porlock Aurochs (Bos primigenius), the extinct species of cattle which are the ancestors of nearly all present day domestic cattle. Some bones of these cattle were found in silt layers that were exposed after storms in 1996 moved the shingle ridge along Porlock Bay. Dating from about 1500BC, just the pelvis, a few ribs and some of the backbone had survived from what is thought to be a ten-year old bull. In August, 2002, a model of an aurochs was built by local people and holiday makers, under the guidance of Wendy Dacre, who specialises in Highly Unusual Giant, Enterprises (HUGE), and the resulting reconstruction was part of the Porlock carnival in September that year.

Along the village street colour-washed houses make for a picturesque setting, and there’s plenty of parking space in the three car parks. If you follow signs to the shore they bring you to a footpath which runs alongside open fields looking across to the bay, and once you reach porlock Marsh you can follow the South West Coast Path towards Porlock Weir, 1.5 miles west of Porlock.

Porlock Weir is a small and very pretty harbour area around which are clustered the old stone buildings and thatched cottages of the village. Behind the beach of large pebbles there is ample parking if you’ve chosen to drive here from Porlock, and you’ll find a couple of good hotels and the 15th century Ship Inn to offer refreshment. Also there are a small and varied number shops selling Exmoor glass among other things, and the aquarium adds even more interest

Behind the shops and the Anchor Hotel is a steep path upwards, which at first passes through some open fields with a good view of Porlock Bay but then most of the way is through Culbone Wood. Part of the path is along a very short stretch of the Porlock to Worthy Road with some steep sections that have steps, but it is basically an easy walk, and leads to Culbone and St. Beuno’s. This is smallest church in England’s still to hold services. Only accessible on foot and two miles from Porlock Weir, The church is a tiny 35ft long, but it has a grassy churchyard and a yew tree, all surrounded by a hedge. The main structure dates back to the 12th century, but records show that the site has been in use at least since 430 AD and there has probably been a church on the site since around 635 AD.

When leaving Porlock to continue on your travels you have a choice of routes. One is along the stretch of the A39 known as Porlock Hill, which is very steep with a gradient of 1 in 4 and has several hairpin bends, just to add to the excitement. The other way is to take the much less steep, 1 in14, toll road which was built in the 1840s to provide an alternative and less steep climb. This route twists its way through woodland to the toll house, where a modest fee is charged, and then as the trees thin out you have a wonderful view of the coastline below before the road continues, through open moorland covered in heather and gorse, towards Lynton. Because of it’s gentler incline, walkers and cyclists also use this road to enjoy the panoramic views and take advantage of the stopping places and the picnic area.

The river Lyn running through Lynmouth

Situated on the North Coast of Devon and within the unspoilt beauty of the Exmoor national Park’s landscape. Lynton and Lynmouth offer a perfect place from which to explore the moor. There are historic houses and gardens to visit, and you may catch a glimpse of wild Exmoor ponies and majestic red deer.

The villages became popular as a holiday destination due to the Napoleonic Wars, which denied Britons their usual continental destinations. They found the breathtaking cliffs and coastlines in this area perfect.

Lynton is at the top of a gorge, 500ft above Lynmouth, and the two towns are connected by the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff railway. In the 19th century all goods needed by Lynton would be brought by sea to Lynmouth, from where they had to be carried up the steep hill by pack horse or horse-drawn carts.

Tourists began to arrive from the mid 1820s, arriving at Lynmouth by paddle steamer to face the daunting climb up to Lynton. They could hire donkeys or ponies or horse-drawn carriages to carry them up, but the climb was hard even for horses, whose working lives were short.

In December 1881 it was proposed to build a railway between Lynmouth and Lynton, and power it by water from the River Lyn. The water was put into containers built on rolling carriages, and these then used as counterweights to move carriages full of goods or people up and down the hill. When one 700gallon tank reaches the bottom it is emptied of water, while the tank at the top is filled, ready to start it’s journey downwards. Because of the length and steepness of the rail it had to be equipped with four separate braking systems, but there has never been an accident since its opening in 1890.

For anyone not wanting to use the railway there is a zig-zag path up the cliff which offers some wonderful views out across Lynmouth Bay, as does the railway itself.

At the top of the railway is the “Cliff Top Cafaurant” , which is licensed and serves hot and cold meals as well as drinks and ice cream all through the day. There are public car parks and toilets in both Lynmouth and Lynton. Dogs are allowed to travel on the railway, as long as they’re on a lead, but not on the open platform. Disabled access is available, but a telephone call in advance is advisable for further information. Tel: 01598 753908/753486

In Lynton you can see the Parish Church of St Mary, which overlooks the sea. It’s tower is mainly 13th century and houses two bells which are both 400 years old. The nave was rebuilt in 1741 and the church was again enlarged in Victorian times. Many of the surrounding shops and buildings were built in Victorian or Edwardian times.

The Lyn & Exmoor Museum is housed in Lynton’s oldest surviving domestic dwelling, a Grade 2, listed whitewashed stone cottage.There are seven rooms to the museum, plus a garden, and exhibits include old engravings and paintings showing Exmoor life over the last two centuries, plus a display relating to The Lynmouth Flood Disaster of 1952, models, relics and curios from the Lynton & Barnstaple Railway, old agricultural implements from farms on Exmoor, a Victorian Doll’s house, local maritime relics, kitchen appliances and cooking paraphernalia, the story of the Louisa lifeboat rescue, Victorian bird and animal exhibits, minerals, fossils and rocks from Exmoor, and more.

There is a cinema in Lynton which seats just 68 persons, but the seats are comfortable, with plenty of legroom. It has full Dolby SR sound, air conditioning in summer and central heating in winter. There’s also full disabled access and a toilet. The cinema is situated in the centre of Lynton, next to the Town Hall. Parking is either road side or in the nearby Cross Street car park. Enquiries: 01598 753397

A beautifully converted church in Lee Road, Lynton, houses Lyn Arts and Crafts Centre, where over fifty local tradersoffer their work, which includes ceramics and pottery, jewellery, woodworking crafts and leather crafts, hand made soaps and many other creations of craft and artwork.

From the main street of Lynton, by the side of the town Hall, past the book exchange shop, there’s a footpath leading upwards which will take you to one of three places. The path leads up through woods and divides after a short distance. To the right the signpost says ” Hollerday House”, which was a great mansion once lived in by George Newnes, a publisher who loved Lynton and was a great benefactor of the town. He was one of those involved in having the railway built to carry people and goods up the 600ft cliff.

Unfortunately this great mansion mysteriously burned to the ground in 1913, but Hollerday Hill, the site of the house, offers wonderful views down into Lynton. Keeping to the footpath straight ahead brings you to another choice of directions. You may pass by an iron age fort, through a gate, upwards to the highest point and a magnificent view of the coast and down to the Valley of rocks, or take the fork to the left and walk downwards into the Valley of Rocks itself, where there is a herd of wild goats. The valley is also noted for its geology and its stunning views and runs parallel to the coast to the west of Lynton. There are two public car parks in the valley, adjacent to a tea room and the cricket club.

Opposite Lynmouth Harbour is the Flood Memorial Hall. On the evening of August 15, 1952 there was a cloudburst which, coming after a month of heavy rain, had devastating effects, with 34 lives lost and immense damage to buildings. Many of the buildings seen in Lynmouth today are reconstructions of those wrecked in the flood. Inside the hall there is a permanent free exhibition, which includes a scale model of the village as it was before the flood, with images of the buildings which were destroyed and how to identify their sites.

Another place to visit in Lynmouth is the Lyn Model Railway, which is on display in a building adjacent to Lynmouth Parish Church in Watersmeet Road. It is a large layout of London and North Eastern Railway, modelled in the 1935-40 period. Open from Easter Weekend – end of October

Boat trips are available from Lynmouth, and visitors can be taken out to sea by the Oxenham family, who have generations of experience of the Exmoor coast. This most beautiful part of Exmoor has the highest sea cliffs in England and you will see wooded river gorges and sheltered bays. You’ll hear stories of Lynmouth’s past and the famous Lynmouth Lifeboat. On the boat trip you can get within ten feet of the sea birds colonising the cliffs high above the sea. Enquire on Lynmouth Quay before 11am or try contacting Matthew on 01598 753207

For inland sightseeing, an open top bus service runs along the coast, negotiating some of the steepest hills in the country to provide wonderful views of coast and moorland. The service from Minehead to Lynmouth is an open topped bus running every 2 hours, seven days a week during the summer months and offers some of the finest coastal views in the country.

Another service links Lynmouth to Bampton, which is south of Exmoor. On two days a week during August and September, its route travels across Exmoor via Dulverton and passing many beauty spots on the way to Lynmouth.

From Lynmouth a walk along the side of the River Lyn will bring you to Glenlyn Gorge, which is part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Here the water supplies a hydro-electric generator which produces electricity for the village of Lynmouth and you can have the opportunity to see water-driven engines and an exhibition of the power of water, as well as enjoying the beauty of waterfalls, tranquil pools, and the surounding woodland.

It’s also possible to tour the Lower Gorge and see the 1952 flood level, and a pleasant walk leads to Moses’ Pool, deep in the wooded gorge. You can sit by the peaceful river and pass by waterfalls which lead to an impressive ravine.

Watersmeet House is in Lynmouth. A former fishing lodge, it is used nowadays as an information centre, tea room and shop, owned by the National Trust. Here is the starting-off point for some 40 miles of woodland, streamside and seaside walks. The East Lyn River tumbles through the woodland, meeting Farley Water and this gives Watersmeet its name.There are a number of waterfalls and a series of rapids. Many bird species may be spotted here, including woodpeckers, pied flycatchers and redstarts.

One of the largest ancient woodlands remaining in the south-west, Watersmeet has many types of trees, including rare whitebeams. Ground flora includes bilberry, sweet woodruff and dog’s mercury, and there are many lichens and mosses. It’s one of only two sites in mainland Britain where the Irish spurge, Euphorbia Hybema, can be found. Red deer are occasionally seen away from the more populated places.

A pleasant walk downstream to Lynmouth, via Myrtlebury, or upstream to Hillsford Bridge, passes sparkling waterways which enjoy peace and quiet even when the year is at its busiest times. Dippers and birds of prey may be seen, with salmon and trout in the waters. In addition to walking, Watersmeet is popular with canoeist, and, obviously, with anglers.

Lynmouth and Lynton are an ideal base for walkers. Being on a heritage coast, they are part of Exmoor National Park, and hikers can follow the South West Coast Path to Minehead in the east and Combe Martin in the west. They will pass through heather covered moorland, past rocky coves that beg exploration.As a matter of interest, the novel Lorna Doone is set amidst this landscape.

An alternative route is the Two Moors Way, stretching between Lynmouth and Ivybridge in South Devon, and coinciding for part of its way through Exmoor with the Tarka Trail, which passes alongside rivers through Devon, following the path taken by Tarka the Otter in the book by Henry Williamson.

There is a choice of Beaches around Lynton & Lynmouth. Lynmouth Bay has a beach of shingle and rocks, close to car parks, toilets, and places to eat, with. deck chairs available for hire in the summer months. This beach is good for rock-pooling and for the use of experienced surfers.

Lee Bay is just to the west edge of Lynton and Lynmouth, past the Valley of Rocks. A 200m path leads gently down from the car park and public toilets to the beach. This beach is popular for bathing, but there can be some strong currents in the deeper water.

Sillery Sands has mixed sand and shingle and lies to the east of Lynmouth Bay. It can only be reached by a footpath leading from the South West Coast Path, or from the A39 on Countisbury Hill. There are no facilities here and the long, steep walk back up to the road makes it suitable for only very fit and able walkers, but it can be worth the walk for it’s seclusion and beautiful views.

Wringcliff Bay is another secluded beach which, being surrounded by high cliffs and accessible by a steep path from the Valley of Rocks, is not suitable for disabled visitors or young children.

In addition to these, within short traveling distance from Lynton & Lynmouth are some of the country’s top rated beaches, for instance, it’s just 13 miles to Combe Martin, which has many rockpools at low tide, containing many species of anemone, shellfish and fish.

23 miles away is Croyde, which faces almost due west, so that the swell and sand banks make it one of the UK’s best surf beaches. Slightly nearer, at 20miles, is Woolacombe, where a two and a quarter mile stretch of golden sand has sandy hills and the Woolacombe Downs as a backdrop. At the northern end of the beach is the village of Woolacombe, with plenty of seaside shops and cafes. This beach is perfect for families, sunbathing, or body boarding.

Is it any wonder that Lynton and Lynmouth became known by Victorians as “ The Switzerland of England”, and was described by the painter Gainsborough as “ the most delightful place for a landscape painter this country can boast”? These villages surely rank among the most beautiful places in Britain.